ULTAR SAR (7,788 M) EXPEDITION

 

Ultar SAR (also Ultar, Ultar II, Bojohagur Duanasir II) is the southeastern most major peak of the Batura Muztagh, a subrange of the Karakorum Range. It lies about 10 km (6 miles) northeast of the Karimabad, a town on the Karakorum Highway in the Hunza Valley, part of the Gilgit District of the Northern Areas of Pakistan.

The first two ascents were made in July 1996 by two separate Japanese expeditions, the first (from the Tokai section of the Japanese Alpine Club) led by Akito Yamazaki (who summitted, but died on the descent) and the second led by Ken Takahashi. The first summit team comprised Yamazaki and Kiyoshi Matsuoka (who died one year later on the nearby peak Bublimotin). They climbed the peak from the southwest in alpine style, doing much of the climbing at night to avoid danger from falling rock and ice. After their successful summit, they faced strong storms and bivouaced several days without food before returning to base camp. However, Akihito Yamazaki died at base camp of an internal disease due to the severe stress of climbing.

The second summit team comprised Takahashi and four others: Masayuki Ando, Ryushi Hoshino, Wataru Saito, and Nobuo Tsutsumi. They climbed the south ridge. Since 1996, there have been no recorded ascents of the peak.

Itinerary:

Days

Areas

Overnight

01 Arrive at Islamabad transfer to hotel. Hotel
02 Drive to Chilas by Karakorum highway 11-12hrs Hotel
03 Drive to Karimabad 5-6hrs Hotel
04 Drive to Shahabad jeep 1hs and trek to Shamir Harar Camp
05 Trek to Bath Bakor 4-5hrs Camp
06 Trek to Ultar Peak base Camp
07-36 29 days for climb Camp
37 Trek down to Bath Bakor Camp
38 Trek down to Shahabad and drive to Karimabad Hotel
39 Free day in Karimabad Hotel
40 Drive back to Besham 9-10hrs Hotel
41 Drive to Islamabad 6-7hrs Hotel
42 Transfer to Islamabad airport for International flight. - - -
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan
Ultar Sar 7,788 M Karakoram Pakistan

 


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