SHISPER PEAK 7,611 M (24970 ft) EXPEDITION

Shisper is one of the highest peaks of the Batura Muztagh, which is the westernmost subrange of the Karakoram Range. Shisper Peak is also known as Shisper Sar and Shisparé Sar.

Climbing in the Batura Muztagh began later than in other parts of the Karakoram. Shisper was the first significant peak in the Batura Muztagh to be successfully climbed. The first successful expedition was made by the "Polish-German Academic Expedition" under Janusz Kurczab in 1974. it took 35 days to ascent to climb this peak. While preparations for a second group to try for the summit of shisper, a member of the expedition Heinz Borchers lost his life in an avalanche.

The first ascent route was between the Pasu and Ghulkin glaciers following the Passu Glacier. This ridge is known as "southeast ridge" and the "northeast ridge" because it goes southeast from the summit, turns northeast, and then turns roughly east. Difficult parts during this ascent include a long ice ridge, and the ridge's access requires 1500m of fixed rope.

The second attempt was made by the members of Ryukoku University Alpine Club Japan, in 1989, led by Masato Okamoto. The group remained on the mountain for almost two months but could not summit, although they achieved a height of around 7,200 m/23,620 ft.

 A group led by Yukiteru Masui from the Komono Alpine Club in Japan achieved the second ascent in 1994. They reached Base Camp of Shisper on June 18, and Masui, Kokubu, and Ozawa successfully reached the summit on July 20 following the same route as the first ascent party and climbed in a similar style, with an equal amount of fixed rope.