LATOK GROUP (23442 ft / 7,145 M EXPEDITION


Duration of Trek: 34 Days
Mountain Range:  Karakorum                             
Season:     May to September                     
Maximum Elevation: 7145-M. 

Located in the Panmah Muztagh part of the central Karakorum range Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks. They are situated east to the Ogre group, which is dominated by Baintha Brakk. The Baintha Lukpar Glacier is located immediately south of the Latok group, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier and Karakorum's main glaciers. To the north of the Latok group lies the Choktoi Glacier.

Latok group comprises four main summits Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, Latok II, west, Latok III, east, 6,949 m, Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m. 

All of the Latok group summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been some of the most challenging climbing done at high altitudes around the world.

Latok I was first climbed by a Japanese expedition in 1979, led by Naoki Takada; the first summit members included Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, and Yu Watanabe followed by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo three days later. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge of Latok I.

The North Ridge of Latok I, which is steep and 2,500 m, is a famous unclimbed route: its first attempt was made by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe Jeff Lowe and almost successfully climbed. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the unsuccessful summit. Many other unsuccessful attempts have followed after this attempt.

Latok II was first ascent by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergamaschi in 1977. This was the first successful ascent in the Latok group. They climbed the southeast face of Latok II. E. Alimonta, T. Mase, and R. Valentini were the first ones who made the summit.

A recent ascent of Latok II came in 1997 when a solid team, including Alexander Huber, Toni Gutsch, Thomas Huber, and Conrad Anker, climbed the peak's sheer West Face. They described this aptly as putting "El Capitan on top of Denali": a 1,000-meter vertical rock wall with a base of 6,100 meters elevation. The total vertical distance for this climb was 2,200 meters.

A Japanese team first climbed Latok III under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi in 1979, they climbed the Southwest Ridge. The summit party members included Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori. In 1988 the second ascent was made via the same route by an Italian party. This was, in fact, the first repeat ascent of any peak in the Latok group.





01 Arrive Islamabad transfer to Hotel. Hotel
02 Briefing in the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Hotel
03 Drive along the KKH to Chilas. Hotel
04 Drive Chilas to Skardu. Hotel
05 Rest day and preparation for the expedition in Skardu. Hotel
06 Jeep drive to Askole. Camp
07 Trek to Julla. Camp
08 Trek to Panmah. Camp
09 Trek to Choktoi mouth. Camp
10 Trek to Latok I, II, III, IV Base camp. Camp
11-26 Climbing. Camp
27 Walk down to Panmah. Camp
28 Trek to Julla. Camp
29 Trek to Askole. Camp
30 Drive by jeep to Skardu. Hotel
31 Drive to Besham. Hotel
32 Drive to Islamabad. Hotel
33 De-briefing with Alpine club. Hotel
34 Transfer to airport for onward destination. - - -
Latok Group Expedition
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