LATOK GROUP (23442 ft / 7,145 M EXPEDITION

 

Duration of Trek: 34 Days
Mountain Range:  Karakorum                             
Season:     May to September                     
Maximum Elevation: 7145-M. 

The Latok group is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks in the Panmah Muztagh, part of the central Karakorum mountain range. They lie just to the east of the Ogre group, dominated by Baintha Brakk. To the immediate south of the Latok group lies the Baintha Lukpar Glacier, a small tributary of the Biafo Glacier, one of the main glaciers of the Karakorum. On the north side of the group lies the Choktoi Glacier.

The group comprises four main summits Latok I, north-central, 7,145 m, Latok II, west, Latok III, east, 6,949 m, Latok IV, southeast, 6,456 m. 

All of the summits are notable for their extreme technical difficulty, and they have been the scene of some of the hardest climbing done at high altitude anywhere in the world.

Latok I was first climbed in 1979 by a Japanese expedition led by Naoki Takada; the first summit party comprised Sin'e Matsumi, Tsuneo Shigehiro, Yu Watanabe, and they were followed three days later by Hideo Muto, Jun'ichi Oku, and Kota Endo. They started from the Baintha Lukpar Glacier and climbed a buttress to reach the East Ridge.
The steep North Ridge of Latok I, 2,500 m (8,200 ft) high, is a notorious unclimbed route: it was first attempted, and almost successfully climbed, by the noted American climbers Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy, George Lowe, and Jeff Lowe. The lightweight style of this climb was widely admired, despite the lack of a summit. Many unsuccessful attempts have followed.

Latok II saw its first ascent in 1977, by an Italian group led by Arturo Bergameschi. (This was the first successful ascent in the group. They climbed the southeast face of the peak, and E. Alimonta, T. Mase, and R. Valentini made the summit.

A notable recent ascent of Latok II came in 1997, when a very strong team composed of Alexander Huber, Thomas Huber, Toni Gutsch, and Conrad Anker climbed the sheer West Face of the peak. They described this aptly as putting "El Capitan on top of Denali": a 1,000 m (3,280 ft) vertical rock wall with a base at 6,100 m (20,000 ft) elevation. The total vertical for the climb was 2,200 m (7,200 ft).

The first ascent of Latok III came in 1979, when a Japanese team under the leadership of Yoji Teranishi climbed the Southwest Ridge route. They climbed the Southwest Ridge, and the summit party were Teranishi, Kazushige Takami, and Sakae Mori. The second ascent, via the same route, came in 1988, by an Italian party. This was in fact the first repeat ascent of any peak in the group.

Itinerary:

Days

Areas

Overnight

01 Arrive Islamabad transfer to Hotel. Hotel
02 Briefing in the Alpine Club of Pakistan. Hotel
03 Drive along the KKH to Chilas. Hotel
04 Drive Chilas to Skardu. Hotel
05 Rest day and preparation for the expedition in Skardu. Hotel
06 Jeep drive to Askole. Camp
07 Trek to Julla. Camp
08 Trek to Panmah. Camp
09 Trek to Choktoi mouth. Camp
10 Trek to Latok I, II, III, IV Base camp. Camp
11-26 Climbing. Camp
27 Walk down to Panmah. Camp
28 Trek to Julla. Camp
29 Trek to Askole. Camp
30 Drive by jeep to Skardu. Hotel
31 Drive to Besham. Hotel
32 Drive to Islamabad. Hotel
33 De-briefing with Alpine club. Hotel
34 Transfer to airport for onward destination. - - -
Latok Group Expedition
Latok Group Expeditions
Latok I 7,151m Expeditions

 


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